The humble downtown dive serves more than sixty main courses, offering an attempt at encyclopedic deliciousness from across the subcontinent.
You’ve had Indian food, sure, but have you tried chicken chettinad? How about raan? Or goat kadhai? Most Indian restaurants in New York focus on the classics (tikka masala, korma), or trendy takes on the cuisine. (Floyd Cardoz’s pork ribs vindaloo at Paowalla, noted.) Ruchi, a humble dive on the cusp of the World Trade Center site, on the other hand, goes for a maximalist approach, offering more than sixty main courses, an attempt at encyclopedic deliciousness from across the subcontinent.
Ruchi is easy to miss: the dining room is snugly fitted into the crook of O’Hara’s, a boomerang-shaped cop-and-fireman watering hole. The restaurant is marked only by a faded red vestibule and a pair of plastic stands that advertise deals—North Indian dishes are half price at lunchtime on weekdays. Colored-glass lanterns wash the interior with a warm, effulgent light, and the mauve shadows they cast seem to demand that diners try something out of the ordinary.